Maine

Maine. They don’t call it the pine tree state for nothing. And it isn’t just those rich green trees. You’ll find fields of wild blueberries, gorgeous cliffs overlooking Atlantic Ocean waves, and lobster rolls. Sweet, buttery, delectable lobster rolls.

Bar Harbor

A sleepy coastal town, Bar Harbor was once home to the elite of the Gilded Age, until the Great Fires of 1947 burned the cliffside mansions to the ground. Today, Bar Harbor is a slow-moving place, though encroaching tourists are gradually changing its character and pricing locals out.

That said, I found the town incredibly charming. Fishing boats gliding across the water through a blanket of fog. Old fashioned storefronts lined with antique stores, artisan stores selling woodcarvings, seafood restaurants, and souvenir shops.

My first stop when I landed in Bar Harbor was Choco-Latte Cafe. It was a cozy little spot on Main Street, with nautical art on its walls and locals working on laptops. I tried their signature Choco-Latte, espresso steamed with milk, house-made chocolate syrup, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger.

Next, it was time to explore the town. Blueberry soda and a fried haddock sandwich from the Thirsty Whale, a small local watering hole, served as lunch. Then I popped into the shops that lined Main Street. I bought The Weir, a 1947 novel by Ruth Moore that is set in a small, Maine fishing town. Highly recommend. There were shops full of hand-carved wooden figures, often in the form of ducks, herons, and other regional birds. I bought my own little wooden duck, which sits proudly on my bookcase now. There was also an antique store full of old mermaid sculptures, speaking to the town’s history as a fishing town.

The next morning, I watched the sunrise over Cadillac Mountain from the outdoor seating at Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast. There, I enjoyed the best breakfast: a stack of blueberry pancakes topped with wild blueberry compote and real maple syrup, which I also happily added to my mug of coffee. With that fuel, I was ready to explore Acadia National Park.

Maine is one of the most beautiful states, and nowhere is the beauty more on display than in Acadia National Park. I took Park Loop Road and made several stops, encountering cliffs, beaches, and mountains. There was a lovely garden area, full of native flora and birdhouses. Trails weaved through thick pine woods, a quiet and serene escape from the more crowded areas of the park. Schooner Head Overlook is a must-see. There, I watched the waves glide into jutting cliffs and spied a beautiful coastal mansion etched into the mountains in the distance. Sitting on the cliff, I closed my eyes, allowing the sound of the ebbing water to wash over me as the cool air caressed my face.

My groaning stomach alerted me that it was time for lunch, so I headed to Jordan Pond House, which sits within the park. There, I ate some popovers with blueberry preserves but that wasn’t enough to satisfy me. It was time. Time for lobster. Feeling bold, I ordered a whole lobster, head and all. Unfortunately, I had never eaten an entire lobster before and had absolutely no idea how to do it. I’ll spare you from the details, but it was graphic…and delicious. With lunch behind me, it was time for more exploring. My next stop was Sand Beach. The only beaches I had been to up to that point were in places like Florida, Virginia, and Maryland. I had never been to a beach surrounded by deep green trees and mountains. It was beautiful. Unable to help myself, I toed off my converse and socks and let the icy waves lick my feet. It was a perfect end to my visit to the park.

The next day started at 2 Cats Restaurant, an adorable breakfast spot with a gorgeous garden. I sat inside, because I’m afraid of bees, and ordered an omelette stuffed with smoked whitefish—incredible. With that, I was ready to hit the road.

Wild Blueberry Land

My next main destination was York Beach, but I wanted to make a couple of detours along the way. First up was a kooky place called Wild Blueberry Land, which was admittedly an hour out of my way. I love strange, quirky places like this. Wild Blueberry Land is a museum and shop dedicated to the state’s famed berry. The building itself is shaped like a blueberry and is surrounded by all sorts of fun photo ops. Inside, you can read all about the history of the wild Maine blueberries, how immigrants keep it going, and explore antique blueberry ads, cans, and other memorabilia. There’s also a gift shop full of everything from blueberry-flavored coffee to blueberry-scented soaps. I bought some coffee and preserves and headed on my way.

Bangor

Known in the 19th century as the “lumber capital of the world,” Bangor remains a commercial hub for the state. Folklore hero Paul Bunyan represents the area’s lumberjack past with a huge statue and murals found in town. Stephen King grew up in the town, and his former home has been turned into a museum, looking like a menacing estate out of one of his own novels. The town feels very much like a college town, with nearby universities and museums like the Zillman Art Museum and the Maine Discovery Museum. When I grabbed coffee at Wicked Brew (now permanently closed), it was full of young people reading and working on their laptops. I stopped in at a few fun shops like The Rock and Art Shop.

York Beach

There’s something about York Beach that makes you feel transported through time. Perhaps it’s the old fashioned machinery seen stretching taffy through a nearly 130-year-old candy store’s window. Maybe it’s the scenic promenade along the shore. Or possibly the old and reliable lighthouse that has watched over the beach community since 1879.

You half expect to hear ragtime tunes playing as you enter The Goldenrod, a soda fountain, diner, and candy shop that has been open since 1896. In the window, you can see the large antique machines turning and stretching saltwater taffy, and inside there are rows upon rows of chocolates and confections. I opted to sit down for lunch, ordering a tuna melt on rye and a malted mocha egg cream—unreal.

After a fantastic lunch, I decided to explore. I walked along the paved beachfront path, enjoying the calm sea air. There were all sorts of cute shops scattered throughout the area, mostly touristy spots, but still fun to explore. And yes, I did get my palm read by a psychic, and I did pet her cute little dog.

Nubble Lighthouse is the town’s most famous historical landmark, built back in 1879. Photos don’t do it justice. The sky was clear blue and the water was calm and serene. I sat on the rocks, right in front of the water, watching its gentle movements, and taking keen interest in the sea moss, snails, and seagulls that surrounded me.

Nectar Cafe was the spot for a simple but tasty breakfast of coffee and a blueberry doughnut. It sits next to Bell Farms Shops, a gift shop specializing in garden decor and birdhouses. The area surrounding the shop was its best advertisement, full of beautiful gardens and artisan birdhouses. I listened to the cheerful chirping of birds as I enjoyed my coffee.

Ogunquit

Sitting on Maine’s southern coast, surrounded by ocean waves and grassy dunes, is Ogunquit. Just a few minutes from York by car, it was a perfect day trip for hiking and wandering art exhibits.

The Marginal Way Trail is an easy, 2.4-mile cliffside walk overlooking the beautiful Perkins Cove. It took me about 50 minutes and was one of the highlights of my trip to Maine. At the end, I reached cliffs and I sat in front of the water, watching it cascade over the rocks. I must of sat there for at least 30 minutes, enjoying the natural beauty of Ogunquit.

You could spend an afternoon at the Ogunquit Museum of American Art and never even step through its front doors. A sculpture garden surrounds the building, with a tree-shaded trail leading to a little cove where you can sit and watch the water. Once inside the museum, you’re greeted with regional art: paintings of lobsters, cliffs, foggy shores, and other elements of Maine life.

The Kennebunks

Also a day trip from York Beach is the Kennebunks, two towns separated by a couple of rivers. Trails, boutiques, docks, and delish seafood restaurants are found here.

Before getting out for the day, my airbnb host led me on a morning walk. She knew a secluded path that led to this small, private beach. There, she pointed out crabs and tiny baby lobsters skittering just under the surface of the shallow water. When we got back to her cute York Beach cottage, she made me a lobster roll for breakfast. Not too shabby!

My first stop heading into Kennebunkport was the Seashore Trolley Museum. I strongly believe you do not need to be a history nerd to have fun here (but it certainly helps). It’s the first and largest electric railroad museum in the world and is full of antique trolleys that you can board and feel transported back in time. There’s even a vintage trolley dating back to the 1900s that you can ride around on a scenic track.

The afternoon was spent exploring Kennebunk, with lunch at Alisson’s Restaurant and a ton of window shopping. Back in York, I took a tour of Wiggly Bridge Distillery, learning about how they make their whiskies and sampling a little for myself.

Next, I checked out the Sayward-Wheeler House, a colonial-era home built in 1718. The house overlooks York River, which has a long path stretching across it. I took the path, and it led me into a pretty wooded trail. Ready for dinner, I grabbed a table at Dockside Restaurant, a family-owned waterfront eatery. Oysters, clams, and a buttery lobster roll were on the menu that night, and I topped it all off with a slice of blueberry pie. Yum!

Portland

It was time to leave behind the sleepy coastal towns of Bar Harbor, York, and the Kennebunks and head to Portland. A proper city, Portland has an incredible culinary scene, several art galleries, and a super cool vibe.

The Cryptozoology Museum was on the top of my list. This quirky museum is full of relics and exhibits on creatures of legend and fantasy. There was info on everything from Bigfoot to Japanese kappas to Mothman and the Loch Ness monster. It was super fun and interesting.

Portland is a culinary city to the core, and I had some earth-shatteringly amazing food there.

My top recommendations:

A cappuccino and buttermilk biscuit with butter and strawberry jam from Tandem Coffee

The browned butter lobster roll, fresh raw oysters, or the bluefin tuna crudo from Eventide Oyster Co

Poutine from Duckfat, topped with duck confit, a rich duck egg, duck gravy, and cheese curd. I am not exaggerating when I say this is one of my favorite meals I’ve ever had on a trip. And for dessert? A Tandem Roasters Coffee milkshake with duck fat-rendered caramel sauce. Oh. My. Gawd.

Becky’s Diner is the perfect spot for no-frills, satisfying diner food.

Art is everywhere in Portland. Small, local galleries line the streets, like Fore Street Gallery, Portland Art Gallery, and Maine Art Collective. I spent hours exploring the massive collection at the Portland Museum of Art. Every time I go on a trip, I get a tattoo at a local shop as a permanent souvenir. This time, I went to Dark Harbor Tattoo Society, and artist Tony Baris gave me my lovely blueberry tat.

The coolest experience of the entire trip was going on a Lucky Catch Cruise. Led by local fishermen, we got to learn all the ins and outs of Maine lobstering. The fisherman held up both male and female lobsters, indicating the differences in their antennae. The lobsters are measured, to make sure they fit the legal size requirements. Fertile females are marked on their tails and released to promote a flourishing population. It wasn’t just a demonstration, however. It was a hands-on experience. I got to load a trap with fish, lower it into the water, and eventually pull it back up with freshly caught lobsters. Just next to the dock is the Portland Lobster Company, where I got to take my freshly caught lobster and have it made into the freshest lobster roll I’ve ever eaten.

I know we already talked about food, but I made a special trip to Biddeford to get brunch at Palace Diner. The diner was built in a 15-seat street car in 1927, and reopened by its current owners in 2014. The wait was a daunting 2 hours, but nothing was going to stop me from trying this place out. While waiting I met the most adorable, fluffy dog in Maine and we instantly became best friends. With the help of a good novel, two hours melted away and it was finally time for me to sit at the antique counter. I don’t know if it was because I waited so long for it, but the French toast was absolutely incredible, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. I also couldn’t leave without buying my own Palace Diner magnet for my fridge.

I closed out my trip with a historic tour of the Portland Observatory. At the top, there was an observation deck providing unreal panoramic views of the entire city.

It was the perfect send-off to the beautiful Pine State.

⁺˚⋆｡°✩₊✩°｡⋆˚⁺